Islam in Uzbekistan: part one.

In 2000, Jamshid Gaziev published a lengthy paper called “Islamic Revival in Post-Independence Uzbekistan” (“Praxis: The Fletcher Journal of Development Studies”, vol. XVI). Below is some of the paper’s most interesting content:

In September 1991, the Communist Party changed its name to the People’s Democratic Party and elected Islam Karimov as its chairman. In the first direct presidential elections in Uzbekistan, held on 29th December 1991, Karimov, according to Bess Brown, won a fair election receiving 86% of the total votes. The first steps of the new government consisted of conciliatory gestures toward Muslims, including returning mosques and medressas to their original Muslim practitioners, changing the old communist names of the streets and towns to traditional Muslim forms and renaming some administrative positions as they used to be prior to the Russian conquest. In 1994, out of 7,800 mosques in Central Asia, nearly half were officially functioning in Uzbekistan, and 380 medressas have been operating in the country since independence. Moreover, Qur’ans and other instructional material became widely available in Uzbek and the government went further in partially sponsoring the annual pilgrimage to Makkah.

During the first years of independence, the official policy of Karimov’s office was focused on changing the Soviet atheist mentality of the population and propagating the spiritual wealth of the Uzbek nation. Warikoo notes that, relative to the material poverty in rural areas, Karimov felt that “spiritual poverty” was of equal, if not greater, concern.

The history of Uzbekistan was reconsidered, its rich Muslim heritage was glorified and national heroes, purged during the Soviet period, were rehabilitated. New courses, such as “Spiritual Heritage of Uzbekistan” and “Uzbekistan’s Own Way to Independence and Progress”, were included in the curriculum of schools and higher educational establishments. Karimov, explaining this policy, stated that “From the first days of our independence, state policy faced the significant task to revive that tremendous, precious spiritual and cultural heritage, which has been built by our ancestors.”

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Near Chorsu Bazaar, Tashkent

It could be argued that, in order to succeed with this policy, the Uzbek president made a loose political alliance with Uzbekistan’s official Muslim religious leader, Muhammad Sadiq Muhammad Yusuf. James Critchlow claims that Uzbek history and traditions were becoming the ideological standards which opened the door as never before to an Islamic resurgence.

Shirin Akiner criticised the official policy of the government on the grounds that “the chief beneficiary was the republican government, which was adroit enough to use Islam to strengthen its own position and to pave the way for an eventual transformation of Communist Party functionaries into nationalist leaders”. Warikoo, providing support for Akiner’s criticism, stressed that Karimov’s attitude reflected the general “tendency among the ruling elite in Central Asia to cover up their own failures by blaming Soviet policy”.

The above criticism, defining Karimov’s attempts to encourage Islam as a self-interested and politically driven undertaking, is perhaps too harsh. Karimov realised that independence could not be achieved if the people were not aware of their true history and of the detrimental Soviet legacy. This educational policy was responsible for 98.2% of the voters endorsing Uzbekistan’s independence in the December 1991 referendum.

Above all, criticism against the policy of the new government toward Islamic revival can be challenged on the following grounds. First, the government relied on state Islam as a device to help channel and control dissident Muslim forces. Second, the new policy reflected an attempt to fill the vacuum in society created by the decline of secular authority. Last, the state policy responded to growing pressures from Uzbek intellectuals to restore Islam to its rightful place in their history. Karimov, explaining his motives, maintains that “History proves that only educated and enlightened society will appreciate all advantages of democratic development [like that taking place in Uzbekistan], and vice versa, uneducated and ignorant people will accept an authoritarian and totalitarian system [like that of the former USSR].”

With regard to the legal aspects of the state’s strategy toward Islam, it can be argued that legislation and constitutional provisions were designed to define parameters of religious activities, the violations of which would give the government legal sanction to level criminal charges against individuals and religious organisations.

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Khast Imom, Tashkent

The overall policy of the Uzbek authorities toward Islam has sought to provide freedom for its growth as a religion by encouraging the building of mosques and the establishment of religious schools and training colleges, but to resist any manifestation of a political voice for Islam. Diloram Ibrahim argues that it was not the state that dictated the spiritual and religious drive, but the unstable social, political and economic situation in Uzbekistan which made it necessary to seek spiritual support in religion to compensate for all the shortages in real life. It also seems to be natural that Islam, a key feature of Central Asian civilisation since the 8th century, should re-emerge vigorously once freed from official repression.

Although Uzbekistan is more uniformly religious than any other republic in Central Asia, Islam in Uzbekistan is commonly divided horizontally and vertically. The horizontal division splits Islam into Shiism and Sunnism, with further sub-divisions into Sufi orders and sects. The vertical division, stemming from the Soviet period, classifies Islam into “official” and “unofficial”.

The majority of the Muslim umma in Uzbekistan are Sunni Muslims. Predominantly, the Sunni Muslims of Uzbekistan are from the Hanafi school, but some adhere to Sufi brotherhoods. The Hanafi school, founded by Abu Hanifah al-Numan in Kufa, was established in Bukhara in the early 9th century. The Hanafi school is noted for its liberal religious orientation, which allowed the pre-Islamic traditions of the native people to be incorporated into Islam. Haghayeghi found that several Hanafi principles provided flexibility and more freedom in practicing Islam for believers in Uzbekistan. The first principle postulates that if a Muslim wholeheartedly believes in Allah and the Prophet Muhammad but is neglectful toward his religious duties, he is still a Muslim, but a sinful one. Due to this flexibility, Diloram Ibrahim claimed that “In Uzbekistan, Islam has become a religion of rites performed universally. The five pillars of Islam are, by and large, neglected. Uzbeks are ignorant about elementary Islamic teaching, unable to read even a simple prayer.”

Second, the Hanafi teachings place strong emphasis on the expediency and the usefulness of Islam, thus refraining from an interpretation of Islam based on absolute obedience, a characteristic associated with fundamentalist practice of Islam. Muslims are allowed to conduct the prayer in languages other than Arabic, and to choose the section of the Qur’an they wish to read. Third, the Hanafi school holds a very tolerant position toward the issues of criminal and civil punishment, divorce and almsgiving. The fourth maxim says that socio-economic necessity supersedes the need for Islamic orthodoxy. In other words, realising the inevitability of socio-economic changes, especially if the religion itself is to survive, the Hanafi philosophy advocates the postponement or alteration of the conduct of religious affairs to accommodate the needs of the believer. The final principle asserts that difference of opinion in the Muslim community is a token of divine mercy. The non-binding and liberal character of the Hanafi school facilitated its rapid spread among the majority of the Muslim umma of Uzbekistan. In addition, these features of a liberal form of Islam have affected the political beliefs of the population of Uzbekistan.

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Osman Qur’an, Tashkent

There are small communities of Twelver Shiism in Bukhara and Samarkand, which have their origins during the period of Abbasid rule in Central Asia. The Shias believe that Ali ibn Abu Talib is the legitimate heir of the Prophet Muhammad, whereas Sunnis first submit to Abu Bakr and then Ali as the fourth legitimate ruler of the Muslim community.

Sufism, a mystical doctrine that aims at achieving personal union with God, has played a very important role in the Islamisation of Central Asia. Sufis were the first Muslim missionaries in the region and have influenced political affairs since the 12th century. Under the Soviet regime, Sufism preserved Islamic traditions and became very active after the revolution in Iran. In order to avoid confusion, it should be noted that some scholars classify Sufism in Uzbekistan in terms of the vertical division of unofficial Islam. Although the Sufi ishans represented unofficial Islam under the Soviet regime, they did not oppose the representatives of official Islam who co-operated with the Soviet Uzbek authorities. It is true that the Sufi orders used to function underground during the Soviet period, thus preserving Islamic traditions among the rural population of Uzbekistan; however, the Sufi brotherhoods have been recently incorporated into official Islam and the majority of them function openly today.

At present, there are two active Sufi Sunni brotherhoods in Uzbekistan: the Naqshbandiya and the Qadiriya. The Qadiriya, having a well-defined hierarchical structure, are particularly strong in the Fergana Valley, now a centre of radical Islam. The most popular Sufi fraternity in Uzbekistan, the Naqshbandiya, was founded by Muhammad ibn Muhammad Bahaudin Naqshband (1317-89) in Bukhara. Analysing its historical role in the Islamisation of the native people, Ludmila Polonskaya states that “At first, the Naqshbandiya brotherhood was urban and Iranian, but later it absorbed many traditions of Turki nomads and contributed to their Islamisation, promoting a synthesis of Iranian and Turki, farmers’ and nomads’ cultures.”

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Shahrisabz

At present, the Naqshbandiya exert significant influence in the Fergana Valley and Bukhara. Their success can be explained by a variety of reasons. First, the Naqshbandiya are extremely adaptable to changing social and political conditions. Second, the brotherhood is linguistically accessible to everyone because it has Turkic and Persian roots. Last, the Sufi order constitutes “doctrinal liberalism” that excludes fanaticism and radicalism. Another important feature of the Naqshbandiya brotherhood is its highly decentralised structure with multiple centres under the independent religious authority.

Since the demise of the USSR, the Sufi orders have enjoyed more freedom in their religious activities. The local authorities are very careful in dealing with the Sufis. On the one hand, they realise that the popularity, influence and widespread structure of the Sufi orders can be of use in gaining popularity and propagating the official policy of the government. On the other hand, the Sufi sects’ code of secrecy and sophisticated organisational framework have the potential to mobilise Muslims and build a “political infrastructure”. Bearing these factors in mind, the government seeks to build friendly relations and place the Sufi orders within the framework of official Islam, which will provide greater control over the Sufis’ activities.

However, due to their liberalism, the Naqshbandiya have enjoyed special attention from the government. The Islamic complex at the shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband in Bukhara was refurbished, and the anniversary of Naqshband’s birthday was grandiosely celebrated in 1992. The new mufti of Uzbekistan, Mukhtarkhan Abdulayev, was the imam of the Naqshbandi mosque near Bukhara. It has been argued that he was elected for his Sufi background, which assisted in boosting Karimov’s popularity since 1992.

The vertical division breaks Islam into official and unofficial. This division, which emerged as a result of Soviet anti-Islamic policy, is more complicated than the horizontal. Official Islam is a state-instituted system, which includes Islam in the framework of society. Presently, official Islam is represented by the Spiritual Board of the Muslims of Maverannahr. In legal terms, religious groups or organisations can be registered and function officially only if they meet the requirements contained in the law On Freedom of Conscience and Religious Organisations in Uzbekistan dating from May 1998.

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Registan, Samarkand

After independence, the ruling elite sought to maintain control over the religious establishments of official Islam by the constant monitoring of, and interference with, the religious affairs of the clergy. In response to this policy, a large number of Muslims gathered in front of the Uzbek Council of Ministers in Tashkent on 3rd February 1989. The demonstrators demanded the resignation of the Soviet-appointed Mufti, Shamsuddin Babakhanov, and the nomination of Muhammad Sadiq Muhammad Yusuf, director of the Tashkent Al-Bukhari Islamic Institute. This demonstration was less an act of fundamentalism than a political act, one through which the people demanded a voice in the decisions affecting the religious life of their communities.

A reflection of Islamic revival and the growing power of the people in the state’s policy toward Islam can be seen not only in the election of the new mufti, but also in the election of seven religious leaders as people’s deputies to the national parliament. Gradually, state policy has shifted from confrontation to co-optation as a pattern in dealing with Islam. The coalition of religious clergy and the government was exemplified in the “peace-making” efforts of the Mufti Muhammad Sadiq Muhammad Yusuf when he helped restore peace and order following ethnic turmoil in the Fergana Valley in 1989. In his public statements, he emphasised that “danger to interfaith and interethnic harmony could come not from mainstream Islam, but from the splinter groups”. To prevent the radicalisation of the splinter groups, official Islam has undertaken to co-opt members of the Islamic opposition, even offering them high religious posts. Despite the coalition between state policy and mainstream Islam, the official clergy continues to challenge the ever-increasing involvement of government in religious affairs.

Some observers have claimed that such a close alliance of the official clergy and the state, reminiscent of subservience of the former to the communist government, has accelerated the growth of unofficial Islam’s popularity among the people. Expressing himself on this issue, Graham Fuller suggested that “The institutions of established Islam in Central Asia – long dominated by the communist state – do not enjoy the prestige and respect of the people as a result of their too cosy relationships with the state. Unofficial Islam or Islamic movements then inevitably fill the vacuum, gain adherence and legitimacy among the people, and can often impose powerful demands upon the state itself and threaten its legitimacy.”

It would be sensible for the Uzbek authorities to provide more freedom to the official clerical establishments to enable the latter to compete with a strong and diverse unofficial Islam. Since the number of religious and political parties has mushroomed in the political arena in Uzbekistan, the government’s legitimacy has significantly suffered. The reason for this is that the political opposition parties, being constantly harassed by the government, have tried to find unifying grounds with unofficial Islamic groups against the common enemy. Although an alliance between the national democrats and unofficial religious groups is improbable due to differences in their methods of ousting the current government, the real danger to the state is hidden in the Islamic slogans, which are expressed to achieve political objectives.

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Registan, Samarkand

Some of the active influential unofficial religious organisations in Uzbekistan are Islam and Democracy of Uzbekistan, the People’s Front of Uzbekistan, Adolat (Justice), the Islamic Democratic Party, Islam Lashkari (Army of Islam) and the Islamic Renaissance Party. The objectives of these parties can be classified into two main trends, the moderate and the radical. The moderate parties demand a return to the purity of Islam, the spiritual cleansing of the people from immorality and the preaching of the democratic principles of the Qur’an. The radical movements generally advocate the establishment of an Islamic state, but they disagree on the form of the state and the methods of achieving it. Due to the clandestine nature of unofficial Islam, it is difficult to carry out thorough research on their form, hierarchy and goals.

“People may be initially lured by the fundamentalists because of their vast funds and their message of revolution, but the beauty of Islam in Uzbekistan is that it is rooted in culture and philosophy and, above all, tolerance. This cannot be wiped out in a hurry.” Safarbai Kuchkarov, a prominent Sufi in Djizak, Uzbekistan.

Most scholars agree that Islam has become one of the major characteristics of Central Asia, but their opinions on whether Islam will take the radical or the moderate form differ. Some argue that, due to the long-term Slavic experience in the region, the people have become secular and, even though they consider themselves Muslims, do not want Islam to be involved in politics. Others believe that Islamic fundamentalism is inevitable in Uzbekistan due to a combination of political, economic and social determinants.

In accordance with Haynes’s findings, there are four types of Muslims: nominal, traditionalist, mainstream and radical. The nominal Muslim is defined as such because he is born to Muslim parents. As discussed earlier, this Muslim believes in the convergence of Islamic and national self-identity in Uzbekistan. The traditionalist is concerned with the observance of the five pillars of Islam and is not involved in political activities. The mainstream Muslims, or “Islamic liberals”, as defined by Ayubi, perceive Islam as “broad and flexible enough to be able to accommodate itself effectively to the changing requirements of time and peace”.

The official politicisation of Islam has caused several side effects. It has created strict borders between the ideology of state-sponsored Islam, followed by the majority of the nominal and the mainstream Muslims, and the fundamentalist ideology of Islam, supported by those disappointed in official Islam – Islamic reformers and traditionalist and radical Muslims. The refusal of the government to introduce Islamic education in government schools has, for example, resulted in the spread of unofficial schools. The lack of freedom to achieve their radical objectives through the ballot box has made the Muslim radicals attempt to achieve them by force. In addition, the radical Muslims have proliferated due to the vacuum created by the lack of leadership from the official Islamic hierarchy.

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Registan, Samarkand

The radical Muslims, according to Ayubi, observe the three Ds: Islam as a dunya (way of life), a din (religion) and a dawla (Islamic state). In Uzbekistan, in an attempt to achieve a dawla, the fundamentalists have divided into the moderates and the radicals. The moderates advocate a return to the purity of Islam and want people to live according to Islamic norms. One of the moderate active Islamic organisations is the Islamic Democratic Party led by Dadakhan Hassanov, a famous composer and performer of traditional Uzbek music. Set up by Uzbek intellectuals in August 1990, the Islamic Democratic Party demands the imposition of sharia with eventual transformation to an Islamic state. However, they want to fulfil their aims through a non-violent Islamic revolution in Uzbekistan. The radical parties in Uzbekistan are the Islamic Renaissance Party, Islam Lashkari and Adolat. The political objective of these parties is to establish an Islamic state through any means. These parties are most popular in the Fergana Valley and Samarkand. They were accused of extremism and have been banned.

Threatened by the civil war in Tajikistan and encouraged by Western states, the Uzbek government increased its authoritarian drive against fundamentalism. The official clergy supported the government’s campaign against Islamic fundamentalism. In one of his speeches, then-Mufti Muhammad Sadiq Muhammad Yusuf said “There were attempts to form a Muslim party. The official clergy object to it. We consider that Islam by itself is a party which has existed for over 1,400 years already.”

This state strategy was often criticised on the grounds that, instead of supporting moderate Islam and legalising Islamic parties, the rulers drove political Islam further to the wall, giving Islamic militants reason to accuse the rulers of being crypto-communists and unbelievers. Graham Fuller suggests that only tolerance of the emergence of other legitimate opposition parties will diminish the Islamic monopoly on opposition politics. Another consequence of banning Islamic parties and movements is that such authoritarian policies almost invariably strengthen the legitimacy of the fundamentalists, while at the same time adversely affecting the legitimacy of the government.

A number of factors could contribute to the growth of Islamic fundamentalism. Economic and financial instability, combined with widespread corruption and strangling bureaucratic regulations, are a source of tension. Additionally, the poverty of the majority, as opposed to the wealth of the minority of “new Uzbeks”, and the absence of a middle class, improves the odds in favour of Islamic fundamentalism. On the other hand, developments in Tajikistan and the Taliban factor have highlighted the risks of militant Islam. For instance, the Fergana Valley, with the highest level of Islamic activism in Central Asia, has the highest population density in Central Asia and one of the lowest economic standards. Recognising the explosive atmosphere in the valley, efforts to industrialise the region and raise the standard of living have been undertaken by the government. Research carried out by Polonskaya showed that Islamic fundamentalism is most popular among students, rural dwellers, young men who have recently come to the towns from the countryside, representatives of the traditionalist intelligentsia and middle or lower sections of the clergy.

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Hazrat-Hizr Mosque, Samarkand

There are major impediments to the radical Islamisation of Uzbekistan. The liberal Hanafi tradition of Sunni Muslims, which co-exists with a secular state, has a strong hold. The tolerant Islam of the Sufi sects is also widely adhered to, particularly in rural areas. The unwillingness of numerous ethnic minorities to join radical movements led by the ethnic majority makes it difficult for Islamists to unify the population under the Islamic banner and overcome ethnic clashes. Widespread regionalism in Uzbekistan would pose a similar impediment to mass mobilisation for jihad. High literacy levels, the continuing impact of Slavic and now Western cultural influences, the growth of a free market economy and the chaos that Tajikistan and Afghanistan have descended into under Islamic regimes will remain important factors in dissuading people from joining such movements.

Recent political developments in Uzbekistan have shown that the threat of Islamic fundamentalism, though unorganised, should not be underestimated, particularly that of a radical sect called the Wahhabis. The Wahhabi movement in Uzbekistan has been receiving sizable financial support from the Saudi Arabian movement, Ahl-e Sunnah. Wahhabism is well known for its puritanical views and because it denounces the conceptualisation of the four main schools of Sunni Islam – the Hanafi, the Maliki, the Shafi and the Hanbali. The Wahhabis consider the Qur’an and the Hadith as the only authoritative sources for the conduct of the Muslim umma’s behaviour. The Wahhabi movement is particularly strong in the Fergana Valley. According to the Russian Fpapers, which sought to analyse the Fergana riots in 1989, the Wahhabi movement is rapidly gaining strength in the Fergana Valley and enjoys considerable prestige among different strata of the population, from elite literary circles in Tashkent to teenagers in schools. The latter are especially impressed with the Wahhabis’ contempt for money, their rejection of remuneration for the religious rites they perform and their nationalist fervour.

The Wahhabis, due to their ideological and political beliefs, condemn other fundamentalist groups like the Islamic Renaissance Party. An important Wahhabi leader said “The IRP wants to be in parliament. We have no desire to be in parliament. We want a revolution.” Moreover, they condemn Shias and other minority Muslim sects. Many scholars argue that the Wahhabi insistence on a narrow and highly sectarian view of Islam will bring them up against not only the government, but also other Islamic groups in the future.

In December 1997, the Wahhabis began using force in an attempt to establish an Islamic state in the country. The government claims that a number of Wahhabis have received military and terrorist training in Pakistan. At the beginning of December 1997, the Wahhabi sect was officially blamed for the murder of four policemen in Namangan in the Fergana Valley. A few days later in the same region, a group of masked men killed a highly placed official of the GAI (the Automotive Inspection Committee) and decapitated him. The government suspected the Wahhabis of all the December 1997 killings and sent troops from elite security units to keep peace in the Fergana Valley. In addition to the militant response to the Wahhabi threat, the Uzbek parliament enacted On Freedom of Conscience and Religious Organisations in Uzbekistan in May 1998. The law creates extremely restrictive regulations for the registration of religious organisations, bans religious activities and education other than within official Islam and prohibits the activities of foreign missionaries in Uzbekistan.

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Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Samarkand

Abdumannob Polat, chairman of the Human Rights Society of Uzbekistan, claimed that, following May 1998, a large number of religious leaders were arrested or fled the country. Furthermore, at least 120 people in the Fergana Valley were imprisoned on what are likely fabricated charges of narcotics and weapons possession. The situation has become worse after a terrorist act on 16th February 1999 in Tashkent, which killed 16 and wounded more than a 100 people. In his speech in the parliament of Uzbekistan, Karimov highlighted two factors which caused this tragic event: “Firstly, some extremist forces beyond the borders of our country, using the sacred values of Islam, attempt to turn Uzbekistan from the path of democratic and secular development, and secondly, there are some forces that feel hostility toward our independent policy and try their best to dominate and dictate their own policies to Uzbekistan.”

Meanwhile, Karimov has introduced a strategy of development in the 14th session of the Oliy Majlis, which includes the liberalisation of political and economic life in the country, further spiritual renovation of society, the creation of a clever human resources policy, a progressive increase in material prosperity for the people, improvement in the social protection of the population and reform of the national army, frontier and internal forces to maintain peace in the country. It can be seen from this strategy that the government seeks to eliminate all possible grounds for the successful development of radical Islam in Uzbekistan.

The Naqshbandi Sufi Order: more information.

The “School of Sufi Teaching” website has the following summary of the Naqshbandi Sufi Order:

The Naqshbandi Sufi Order stems from the Silsilah Khwajagan, which originally developed in Turkestan. The best-known shaykhs of the Khwajagan were Khwajah Ahmed Yasawi (died about 1167 CE), a native of Sayram in Kazakhstan, and Khwajah Abdul al-Khaliq Ghujdawani of Bukhara (died 1179 CE). The latter was responsible for coining certain terms with technical and spiritual meanings which are still in active use within the Naqshbandi tariqah to this day. He also made the teachings of the order accessible and relevant to the people of his era.

The Naqshbandi tariqah takes its name from Khwaja Baha’uddin Naqshband Bukhari (died 1389 CE), a very prominent Sufi shaykh who continued the tradition of making the spiritual teachings and practices of Sufism more applicable to the changing times in which he lived. Khwaja Baha’uddin Naqshband was the student, and later the khalifa (successor) of Emir Kulal. However, he also received instruction from the ruhaniya (spiritual being) of Khwajah Abdul Khaliq Ghujdawani, who gave Baha’uddin Naqshband the practice of silent dhikr.

The Naqshbandi tariqah is notable in being the only Sufi tariqah which traces its lineage to Prophet Muhammad through Abu Bakr as-Siddiq, the first caliph. All other Sufi tariqahs trace their lineage through Ali ibn Abu Talib, who became the fourth caliph of Islam.

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Main entrance, Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
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Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband

The website of the Naqshbandi Sufi Order in the USA has the following information:

The Naqshbandiyya Nazimiyya Sufi Order was established by Shaykh Hisham Kabbani based on the teachings of the 40th imam of the Naqshbandi Golden Chain, Shaykh Nazim Adil al-Haqqani. The mission of the Naqshbandiyya Nazimiyya Sufi Order is to spread the Sufi teachings of the brotherhood of mankind and the unity of belief in God that is present in all religions and spiritual paths. Its efforts are directed at bringing the diverse spectrum of religions and spiritual paths into harmony and concord, in recognition of mankind’s responsibility as caretaker of this fragile planet and of one another.

The most distinguished Naqshbandi Order is the way of the Companions of the Prophet and those who follow them. This way consists of continuous worship in every action, both external and internal, with complete and perfect discipline according to the sunnah of the Prophet. It consists in maintaining the highest level of conduct and leaving absolutely all innovations and all free interpretations in public customs and private behaviour. It consists in keeping awareness of the Presence of God, Almighty and Exalted, on the way to self-effacement and complete experience of the Divine Presence. It is the way of complete reflection of the highest degree of perfection. It is the way of sanctifying the self by means of the most difficult struggle, the struggle against the self. It begins where the other orders end, in the attraction of complete Divine Love, which was granted to the first friend of the Prophet, Abu Bakr as-Siddiq.

The Naqshbandi Sufi Order places itself firmly in accord with iman, the fundamental articles of faith subscribed to by mainstream Sunni Muslims, and everyone who commits without doubt to the shahadah (there is one God called Allah and Muhammad is his messenger) is deemed to be a Muslim.

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Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
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Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband

Another website contains the following information:

The Naqshbandi Sufi Order, which traces its lineage back to Ali, Abu Bakr and other central figures in early Islam, derives its name from that of a 14th century Central Asian mystic named Baha al-Din al-Naqshbandi. Born in 1317 in the village of Qasr al-Arifan near Bukhara, al-Naqshbandi experienced profound visionary revelations in his youth, became a brilliant Islamic scholar before the age of 20, made the haj to Makkah three times and became a greatly venerated holy man during his life. Visitors from across Central Asia came to Bukhara to see the sage, seek his advice and receive teachings in the school he had established. Following his death in 1389, Sheikh Baha al-Din al-Naqshbandi was buried adjacent to his school, directly upon the site of an ancient Pagan temple.

Historical records from the medieval era indicate that al-Naqshbandi was revered as a saint and a protector of craftsmen and artists, and that pilgrimage to his grave was considered an adequate substitution for the haj to Makkah. Successive kings of Bukhara expanded the school and mosques surrounding al-Naqshbandi’s grave and over the centuries the complex became the largest centre of Islamic learning in Central Asia. During the Soviet period, the mosque was turned into a “museum of atheism” and pilgrims were forbidden to visit. The shrine was reopened in 1989 and the entire complex, with two mosques and a 16th century khanaka (a domed hall where the Sufis lived and studied), has been carefully restored. Lovely shaded gardens surround the shrine and the entire site radiates a palpable feeling of religious devotion and peaceful relaxation. Dressed in colourful traditional clothes and speaking a variety of languages, pilgrims from distant parts of Central Asia flock to the saint’s grave throughout the year.

The Naqshbandi Sufi Order is one of the oldest living traditional Sufi orders. The early members of the order rejected outward shows of religious expression and concentrated upon the inner spiritual life while engaged in the affairs of the world. With followers throughout Central Asia, Turkey, Afghanistan, Pakistan and India, the Naqshbandi Sufis, as both merchants and mystics, played a major role in the introduction of Islam across Asia. Believing that piety is better expressed by social activity than retreat from the world, the Naqshbandi masters often became actively involved in politics. By the 15th century, they had become the dominant Sufi order in much of Central Asia and actively influenced politics from China and India to the Middle East. Today, the Naqshbandi Sufi Order is the foremost Sufi order in the world and is experiencing an unprecedented period of growth, not only in its traditional heartlands of Central Asia, Turkey, the Middle East and South Asia, but in nations of the Western world, particularly the United States and Great Britain.

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Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
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Cemetery, Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband

Three weeks later: some reflections.

As I worked on the blog you are currently reading, I found inspiration in the music of Shostakovich. I knew Shostakovich was a Russian and not an Uzbek, and that he probably never visited Uzbekistan when it was part of the Soviet Union, but, because Uzbekistan had preserved some aspects of the Soviet Union more convincingly than other parts of the one-time communist empire, engaging with his music did not seem ridiculous. I got to grips with the Fifth Symphony (1937), the Piano Trio in E Minor (1944) and the Third String Quartet in F Major (1946). I was very impressed.

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Domestic terminal, Tashkent Airport

Hello, Sohan. We are back and I am working my way through many emails, etc.

Sikhs still use Uzbekistan Airways to get to Amritsar or Delhi, although the airline will not win awards for its in-flight food for some years to come! 

At the remarkable Naqshbandi shrine a few kilometres from Bukhara, information about the Sufi order was available only at extortionate expense in shops (signs for visitors to study were limited to the naming of structures around the complex), but we gleaned enough to know that ordinary/lay members of the order (especially the very forthcoming women) are, as a general rule, sound and quite liberal in outlook, but anyone with authority (men, inevitably) want to align the order firmly with orthodox Sunni Islam with all that this implies in terms of sharia and doing only what is allowed/identified in the Qur’an and the Hadith. One aspect of what is often called folk religion that the stern men of law and order want to suppress (because there is no evidence for the practice in the Qur’an or the Hadith) is a tradition at the shrine associated with a large fallen tree beside an artificial water tank which women must navigate around and/or under without any part of their body touching the water (according to some Naqshbandis, women who navigate around and/or under the tree without getting wet will enhance their chances of producing children). 

Folk religion empowers, and meets the emotional needs of, the people denied substantive influence in religious groups dominated by hierarchies (such hierarchies are invariably male). As a general rule, the hierarchies try to eradicate folk religion, thereby “purifying” the faith and enhancing their authority at one and the same time. Aspects of folk religion are often the manifestations of faith shared with people who belong to other expressions of religion, so in this respect, folk religion provides people in different faiths with something they have in common – yet people with religious authority often wish to suppress such expressions of faith, thereby removing things that unite rather than divide people. Sad, but we encounter such abuse of power across the world where religious identity is taken seriously/too seriously, and/or where authority within the faith resides with the few rather than the many.

I came away with the impression that almost everything that links the Naqshbandis with benign Sufi groups will soon be nothing but history; here is a Sufi order determined to confirm that its commitment to orthodox Sunni Islam is beyond question. The route taken by the Naqshbandis can in some ways be likened to the path taken by the Hassidic Jews, who moved from a position of radical mystical innovation (early 18th century) to one today almost indistinguishable from that of the deeply conservative Haredi Jews, who in days past were the Hassidic Jews’ most vocal enemies.

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Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
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Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband

Mainstream Sunni Islam is currently under quite strict control/surveillance in Uzbekistan by an oppressively authoritarian regime manifesting many characteristics of the USSR, but, since the country shares a border with Afghanistan, terrorist acts are not unknown (although most terrorist acts seem to be perpetrated by home-grown extremists). Jewish communities have in the past been targeted (Uzbekistan’s Jewish communities are now so small that they will probably disappear in one or two generations), and, for obvious reasons, I connected with the Jewish communities in Bukhara and Samarkand (the one in Bukhara, with only two active synagogues, is the more famous). If Shia Muslims and non-Naqshbandi Sufis exist, they keep a low profile. Twice we encountered beautiful Zoroastrian temples (one is barely recognisable due to its conversion to a mosque), but Zoroastrians no longer exist in the country. Evidence for the region’s Hindu, Buddhist and earliest Christian communities exist only in museums – but, as you would expect, Orthodox Christianity is quite important because of the presence of Russians (the Russian presence is most apparent in Tashkent, the capital). Russians have lived in Uzbekistan since tsarist times, but their number increased significantly during the Soviet era.

It was a remarkable trip, but not one for vegetarians or vegans, unless they can subsist on a diet of bread, salad and fruit! What were the highlights? Khiva, some of the Muslim monuments from the relatively distant past, the markets in Tashkent and Bukhara, a drive through green mountains, cemeteries both Jewish and Muslim, and the astounding friendliness of the women. Not being able to take photos on the Tashkent metro was a downside: how silly. The hotels were very good (the Korean-owned one in Tashkent was excellent) and we had two very good journeys by train, one being high-speed (the high-speed train was Spanish-built). 

I would consider going again to visit the depleted Aral Sea, the Fergana Valley and Termiz close to the Afghan border, but, with so many other interesting destinations to consider, probably lack the time to do so.

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First synagogue, Bukhara

Morning, Sohan. People from Israel occasionally turn up in remote spots such as Bukhara and Samarkand (also in far less remote Tunisia and Morocco) to offer some practical and financial support to shrinking/embattled Jewish communities (I found out about some such support via “Al Jazeera” just the other day), but nowadays, such support is often provided to confirm that religious practices in the communities are undertaken with due regard for what the Orthodox Jewish community in Israel regards as acceptable/correct. Yes, endangered Jewish communities have been airlifted to safety in Israel in the past (the communities in Ethiopia and Yemen perhaps most famously. However, they have not always prospered), but there is a limit to how many people a nation state such as Israel can absorb (within its present borders, that is). It might be argued that the illegal construction of Jewish settlements in occupied Palestinian territory is one (very inflammatory) way of coping with such population growth – but such expansion is primarily fuelled by insanely Orthodox Jewish groups with very alarming views about their non-Jewish neighbours.

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Jewish cemetery, Samarkand

This said, Israel is unique in offering a safe haven to any person who can prove they have a particular ethnic identity, in this case a Jewish one, should the person be suffering persecution or risk losing their life in the nation state in which they live. Put another way, any Jewish person living anywhere around the world has the right to sanctuary in Israel. Of course, this right is a direct result of the attempted extermination of all the Jewish people in world war two. 

The Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband.

After breakfast, we were driven the few kilometres to the Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband, the founder of the Naqshbandi Sufi Order. Many people were visiting the complex and the vast majority were Uzbeks, Kazakhs or Tajiks rather than Russians. All the visitors appeared to be citizens of Uzbekistan. If nothing else, our trip to the shrine confirmed that Uzbekistan was an ethnically diverse nation state.

Man entrance, Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Main entrance, Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband

The complex had a delightful collection of buildings, an extensive cemetery and gardens with water features. The day of our visit, girls and women were as numerous as boys and men, but females were forbidden from entering one of the mosques. We were told that the Naqshbandi Sufi Order emphasised conformity with the sunnah, the traditional social and legal custom and practice of the Sunni Muslim community. The sunnah was based solely on the content of the Qur’an and the Hadith, the latter being words and deeds attributed to Muhammad, his relations and closest companions, often long after he and they had died. This meant that the Naqshbandis deemed as acceptable only what was declared acceptable in the Qur’an and/or the Hadith. This marked out the Naqshbandis as a Sufi order atypical of the Sufis more generally in that the Naqshbandis discouraged innovation and the adoption of beliefs and practices from outside the parameters defined by the Qur’an and the Hadith.

Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband

Inside the complex was a water tank. At one corner of the tank, the trunk of a very old tree lay on the ground with part of it overhanging the water. Here, girls and women gathered to encircle and/or crawl under the trunk without any part of their body getting wet. Some people said that girls and women did this simply to prove that they could; others said that they hoped it would make them more fertile. However, because this was a practice that neither the Qur’an nor the Hadith referred to, the rather stern and austere men who dominated the Naqshbandi Sufi Order wanted to suppress it. The order was therefore in danger of losing one of the few remaining aspects of folk religion that empowered and provided delight to the marginalised girls and women within the movement. Additionally, the order risked losing an aspect of practice which people in many other expressions of religion could easily relate to. I was beginning to appreciate why the Naqshbandis were regarded with grave suspicion in many parts of the world. For example, Sikhs regarded the Naqshbandis with suspicion because of the role they played in India when Guru Arjan Singh was the Sikhs’ spiritual leader. At the time, the Naqshbandis had considerable influence over Jahangir, the Mughal emperor, and sought to suppress expressions of religion that did not conform with their vision of an Islam shaped solely by the sunnah. Jahangir ordered the arrest of Guru Arjan Singh, who was told to convert to Islam. This he refused to do and, as a consequence, he was tortured and executed in 1606. Persecution of the Sikhs preceded the guru’s execution and continued for long thereafter, and the Naqshbandis played a key role in such persecution, sometimes through direct action, but also by giving expression to contempt for people who did not subscribe to the sunnah.

Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband

Some distance from the fallen tree trunk, under a roof supported by columns, a blind hafiz (a person who has learned the whole Qur’an by heart) recited a few qur’anic verses to groups of about 60 males and females. All the people who had gathered to listen faced the hafiz, but in most cases in a seated or kneeling position so they were a little below him (he sat for most of the time on a wide wooden structure raised above the ground covered with carpets and lengths of brightly coloured fabric). Many in the audience closed their eyes or lowered their heads so they looked toward the ground. Some people held both hands in front of them as if reading from the Qur’an. The recital over, some of the people in the audience pressed forward, thanked the hafiz, left him some money and/or took a small gift of food. Ten minutes later, another recital began with a new audience.

Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband

Because the number of foreign tourists was so small the day of our visit, we were objects of curiosity for the local Uzbeks, Kazakhs and Tajiks. Many people wanted to briefly chat and the older girls and women were keen to be photographed standing next to us.

Cemetery entrance, Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Cemetery entrance, Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Cemetery, Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Cemetery, Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Cemetery, Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband
Cemetery, Shrine of Bahaudin Naqshband