It was a day without lunch included, so, with two hours’ free time, Hilary and I walked east and then south from the hotel until arriving at Bukhara’s outstanding bazaar, a mixture of stalls in the open air and under cover. There are no grand buildings providing shelter to parts of the bazaar, just relatively modern sheds of different size and shape, but the atmosphere was excellent because we arrived when it was very busy. We had agreed in advance to eat some of the food in the bazaar and tried three fried pancakes, two of which were filled with cheese and one with onions and ground meat. They were excellent. As we walked around we were given two quails’ eggs and a free ice cream each (in the case of the ice cream, I left 1000 som in part-payment to the people who had treated us). As we left the bazaar, Hilary gave the quails’ eggs to an elderly woman who sat on a low stool on the pavement and, in return, Hilary was given a bun filled with jam. It would have been fun to spend more time in the bazaar, not least because everyone was so friendly and women were responsible for most of the stalls.